Friday, June 30, 2017

Cantwell, AK/Denali National Park to Anchorage, AK (6/30/2017)

Day 17
1964, the Plan: Juneau to Haines, AK by ferry, then on to Whitehorse, YT.
1964, the Actuality: On Sunday, August 2, the Explorer Scouts were still in Cantwell, AK. Kent reported via postcard that he had caught five 1-pound trout. Since only he and one other boy were under the age of 16 (at the age when a license was required to fish), these two accompanied the mechanical engineers on their fishing trips, managing to bring home dinner for the Scouts.
1964: Cantwell church (Dr M)
2017: Cantwell church (6/28/2017)
1964: An Explorer Scout looking south in Cantwell (Dr M)
2017: Kent looking south in Cantwell (6/28/2017)
This is the type of stream where Kent remembered fishing in 1964

Friday, June 30, 2017
Having reached the goal of Mt McKinley/Denali, we will leave the 1964 route of the Explorer Scouts, and continue on Parks Highway/AK-3 to Anchorage, AK.
The "best" breakfast was at the McKinley Cabins Creekside CafĂ© 
Tracey's pancakes with apples and pecans
Eggs and bacon, home fries, with toast of homemade bread
There were many pull-offs with views of Denali
if the weather was clear, which it was not
Some clouds were sitting in the valleys
We detoured east along the Talkeetna Spur Road to Talkeetna, AK, the base camp for climbers wishing to tackle Denali or other Alaska Range mountains. About 1,000 people register for permits to climb Denali, but reaching the summit has less than a 50% success rate. Denali is unique in that it is the highest mountain in the world from base to summit, rising 5,500 m/18,000', while Mt Everest rises 3,700 m/12,000'. (Okay, there seems to be another mountain that is higher than Denali from base to summit: Mauna Kea in Hawaii, which rises 10,210 m/33,497' from its base deep under the Pacific Ocean!)  No matter, Denali still fits the Athabascan meaning of its name: The High/Great One.
David St Lawrence-Harry Robb Cabin (1920s), a freighter cabin;
freighters could be hired to take supplies and equipment overland from
Talkeetna to the remote areas of staked gold claims
Talkeetna Roadhouse (1917) was historically a respite for
fur trappers, miners and prospectors, and other travelers,
now a respite for mountain climbers
Denali Brewing Company Brewpub (2009)
Inside the Denali Brewpub; Kent had a Twister Creek IPA
and purchased a 6-pack to go
Nagley's Store (1921), home to Mayor Stubbs, the cat;
seriously, the cat has been elected Mayor of Talkeetna
 since 1997, the year he was born
We were in time to catch the Hurricane Turn Train, a flag stop train service, the last in the USA, running from Thursday to Sunday in the summer (the first Thursday-Sunday of the month in the winter), leaving at 1:00 pm. Although there seemed to be more local riders than tourists, the train makes stops to view wildlife and the conductor narrates local history. The train has been featured on the TV reality show Railroad Alaska (2013-2016).
The Chase Depot? A group of people got off here
at Mile 10 in order to float back down to
Talkeetna on rafts on the Susitna River
The locals let the conductor know at which milepost they wish to disembark. Some people have cabins along the railroad, but many have miles to go to their remote dwellings "in the bush."
Many locals had a dog with them and the dogs stayed in the baggage car;
this dog had just gotten off and leads the way home
The home of Mary and Clyde Lovel,
where they had homesteaded in 1964
The Alaska Railroad named the siding near the Lovel home as "Sherman," so the Lovels have put a sign on their home as Sherman City Hall. They also have a bookstore, to sell the books written by Mary, based on letters to her family about the homesteading experience (Suddenly It's Spring and Journey to a Dream).
A local disembarks assisted by Warren, the conductor
The locals with their supplies to be hauled to their cabin (KSS)
On one side of the railroad was the Susitna River, and on the other the
landscape varied from thick forests to marshy areas of beaver ponds
There was a dome car
The Hurricane Turn Train alongside a creek
If waiting at the tracks for the train to arrive, you put out a flag
to have the train stop; apparently any kind of flag will do!
Here a dog awaits the return of someone (KSS)
The second engineer who gets out to throw track switches (KSS)
We were to see several pairs of Cygnus buccinator/Trumpeter Swans
The wake of a Castor canadensis/North American Beaver
We crossed only one road, the Parks Highway
Hurricane Depot/Mile 52
Looking for Denali...
The train goes a few miles beyond Hurricane to
Hurricane Gulch, 90 m/296' above Hurricane Creek
On the way back, the train stops at an area
between two crossings of Indian River
Indian River, where we saw only a couple shadowy fish,
it wasn't spawning season yet
The second engineer brought his dog to work today, a Swedish Vallhund
A historic telegraph pole,
which the railroad must not touch
Matteuccia struthiopteris/Ostrich Ferns were large and plentiful
A local woman meeting the train is prepared for bears...
Once more, we get to see the top of Denali!
After a six-hour train ride, we returned to Parks Highway/AK-3 to head south.
The WalMart in Wasilla, AK is the largest in Alaska, and sells the most duct tape of any WalMart in the world
We arrived at Betsey H's home in Anchorage, AK for the night.

Thursday, June 29, 2017

Cantwell, AK/Denali National Park (6/29/2017)

Day 16
1964, the Plan: Juneau, AK.
1964, the Actuality: On Saturday, August 1, the Explorer Scouts stayed in Cantwell, AK, waiting for the Alaska Railroad to deliver a new engine block. They camped near the Cantwell Depot, which was next to the Cantwell airstrip.
1964: Cantwell Depot (Dr M)
2017: Cantwell does not seem to have a depot anymore (6/28/2017, KSS)
1964: Cantwell view towards the camping site (KSS)
2017: Cantwell view from the airstrip (6/28/2017)
1964: Cantwell view of camping site (Dr M)
2017: Cantwell view from the railroad tracks (6/28/2017)

Thursday, June 29, 2017
We spent the day in Denali National Park.
2:30 am
First stop.
Murie Science and Learning Center promotes education
and research within the National Parks of northern Alaska;,
named for the Murie family of naturalists, including Adolph Murie
who studied wolves in Denali in the 1930s
Students wrote what they hoped
was still here in 100 years..
A quilt depicting pixels creating a landform
map of Denali National Park, with each color
representing a land-cover type, such as snow,
water, and different plant types
Second stop, the sled dog kennels. Kent's parents had been to a demonstration at a hotel on the park's premises, but that no longer exits. The kennels were set up at the park headquarters.
Early morning for the sled dogs, some are in the open
with individual log dog houses (KSS)
Some are in fenced enclosures
Sled dogs are Alaskan huskies, which is not a pure breed or breed, but a
category of dog, bred for skills and attributes needed for sled dog racing
 Rangers use the sled dogs to get around the park in winter.
Each dog seemed to have an individual volunteer as a caretaker;
during the day, many can be seen taking a walk along the Park Road
This dog gets a brushing
The tack room, which includes the dog house
name tags of past sled dogs
We decided to drive out Park Road the 14.5 miles to see Denali.
No Denali today
Okay, maybe the very tippy top
It is said that Denali is so high, it creates its own weather, and it is often surrounded by clouds. It is estimated that only 30% of all visitors get a glimpse of the mountain. We consider ourselves very lucky to have seen Denali yesterday.
Third stop.
Denali National Park Visitor Center (2005)
was apparently built on the site of the Denali Park Hotel
(On the same campus were the Alaska Geographic Bookstore and Morino Grill.)
Bull moose with Denali in the background (at the Visitor Center!) (KSS)
Looks like an armored RV, from Germany
After lunch back at the campsite, we went to the Wilderness Access Center. Here we boarded a bus for the Tundra Wilderness Tour, an 8-hour tour that takes you 62 miles out to Stony Hill Overlook and back. (The Park Road is 90-92 miles long.)
Our tour left about 1:50 pm.
On the way to the Savage River Bridge, we saw a single
Rangifer tarandus/Caribou, down by the braided river
In the photo above, you see a deep v-shaped valley that was created by river erosion. A wide shallow u-shaped valley was created by a glacier. Glacial rivers tend to be so-called braided rivers, due to deposits of silt and debris through which channels of water flow.
Savage River Bridge Checkpoint
Only tour buses and shuttle buses can continue farther into Denali National Park, which is a "wilderness park," as was often emphasized. As much as possible, nature is left on its own in this park. It is believed that since wildlife sees only buses passing harmlessly by on a set route, it becomes accustomed to their presence.
A Lagopus lagopus/Willow Ptarmigan family hurried off the road into the underbrush. This grouse is the state bird of Alaska. We also saw a Lepus americanus/Snowshoe Hare.
Canis lupus pambasileus/Alaskan Interior Wolf saunters down the road
in front of us; whenever possible, the driver-narrator tries to focus the
bus camera on wildlife so that everyone can see on the monitors (KSS)
Apparently we were very lucky to have seen a wolf!
Line-up of tour buses and shuttle buses at the Teklanika Rest Stop/Mile 30
This was our tour bus; no motorcoaches here!
Plenty of restrooms at the rest stop!
On either side of the bushy tree at the bottom of the photo
are white dots; these are Ovis dalli dalli/Dall Sheep, really!
We spent quite a bit of time looking through the foliage
at a mother Ursus arctos/Grizzly and two yearling cubs
The grizzlies like to chew on wooden signage, so they
attached spikes around the sign, but not the post!
Polychrome Mountain is made up
 of colorful volcanic rock
View from Polychrome Overlook/Mile 46 (KSS)
We thought we were getting a box lunch, but it was a snack box;
this was our dinner along with a bottle of water
We had seen a caribou and cow moose, before seeing two more
caribou at Toklat River (KSS)
The second caribou at Toklat River; caribou are the only
deer species where both males and females grow antlers (KSS)
We would see four more white-dot Dall sheep, four more caribou, another snowshoe hare, and a Spermophilus parryii/Arctic Ground Squirrel. Kent would spot Dall sheep on a ridge and a Marmota caligata/Hoary Marmot.
Kent at the Visitor Center (sort of a giant yurt) at the Toklat River Rest Stop
It's Complicated (2014, by George-Ann Bowers), a weaving
representing the braided Toklat River
Posing with moose antler halves
Posing with caribou antlers
The beige lump is a sprawled out grizzly bear;
we then saw three more grizzlies (KSS)
Finally Stony Hill Overlook/Mile 62 where we were not to see Denali
Now for the long road back "home"
On the way back we saw that sleeping grizzly again, three of the caribou a second time, plus four snowshoe hares, two Aquila chrysaetos/Golden Eagles, and a Surnia ulula/Hawk Owl. Last, but not least, an Alces alces/Moose with two calves.
At Polychrome Pass, I was on the side looking almost straight down
You can see the road ahead does not have any guardrail!
A Denali National Park shuttle bus (KSS)
The tour ended at 9:45 pm, but of course, it was still light outside.
We had heard about the giant mosquitoes in Alaska!
but this is a Erwptera Meigen/Crane Fly